No way past!!

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Eastern desert, originally uploaded by new_dles.

Luxor to Hurghada

Day 4

Distance: 60km

Start time:3pm


Narrative:Today the final halt that we had been dreading at each police check point came true. As we left Luxor we were stopped at the first check point brusquely told that we could travel no further along the Nile by bicycle and politely told to get a bus to the coast- where it was safer for tourists to travel.

We hitchted a ride to Saffaga, arriving at lunch time, and waited in the bus station until the the heat became bearable enough for cycling- paying the manager a baksheesh for the privilege.

As the prospect of being forbidden passage along the Nile only became apparent quite recently we hadn’t done in-depth research about our alternate route. So, we got a nasty surprise when we encountered the strong headwind and deserted wasteland that makes up Egypt’s Red Sea coast.

As a result of the strong wind it took us almost six hours to cover a distance that would usually have taken less than three. We arrived in Hurghada tired and hungry and spent almost an hour trying to navigate its touristy streets to find a suitable budget hotel. Eventually we stumbled upon a gated resort we agreed to have us- at a price. It was one of those all inclusive packages, the chipper concierge pointed out, which included breakfast, lunch, and the use of the resort’s facilities until 12 the next day.

As we were leaving 5,before breakfast started, we enjoyed none of the above.


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